About this blog:

This blog will feature tasting notes, reviews, distillery visits and whisky news with focus mainly on Scottish single malts. This will sometimes be accompanied by politically incorrect (whisky) opinions. You have now been warned! :-)
The views expressed here are entirely my own, unless otherwise stated.

Monday, 1 October 2018

LONGMORN 1961 TWIN CASKS - GORDON AND MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION

As opposed to many other distilleries whos suffered multible openings/closures Longmorn seems to have maintained a fairly steady pace through history. It was opened in 1893 and even though it has changed hands a few times through history, it has always seemed to have kept running. Longmorn has for a long time been a favourite of blenders but has, through especially Gordon & MacPhail seen fame as a single malt also - I especially remember their 30yo offering as very good!

But lets take a look at these bottlings...
Gordon & MacPhail has launched these twin Longmorn casks from 1961, they're both refill sherry hogsheads, one from American oak and one from European oak. They've matured together in a warehouse in Scotland for 57 years

Marketed as Twin casks its then only befitting that Gordon & MacPhail Managers Richard and Stuart Urquhart is the G&M up-front image, being identical twins themselves.

These Longmorns are the oldest longmorns ever bottled as Single Malt and are only sold as pairs - or twins if you like - at a price of £30.000!

The 1961 twin casks, 512 on the right, 508 on the left © Gordon & MacPhail

Longmorn 1961 57yo (02.02.1961/xx.xx.2018) 40,8%, refill american oak sherry cask#512


Nose:
© Gordon & MacPhail
Mellow and oozing salivating old oak, lots of malt and demerara sugar, Xmas Honey Hearts (baking), a cooling eucalyptus note and overripe oranges and brown banana, a pleasent gingery note and Muscato dessert wine as well. Very fresh for such an old whisky.

Taste:
I was afraid the oak had gotten to this one, but no... Its there yes, but I don't find it at all invasive. It is, if anything wrapping and providing a litte wood sap. There's tea, ginger bread, a little tobacco, hints of walnut, more oranges and pretty much mirroring the nose except for a slight spicy (oak) attack on the finish.

Love this, even if it has a bit of oak - but thats to be expected in a whisky this old.

92/100!


Longmorn 1961 57yo (02.02.1961/xx.xx.2018) 45%, refill european oak sherry cask#508

Nose:
© Gordon & MacPhail
Clearly more sherried than its twin cask... again the nose is quite mellow but its delivering a minty and prune like nose along with very old school sherry notes, something not often seen today. Musty earthen floors, old wet oak, strong coffee with a dash of cocoa powder added. A slight burnt cask note adds to the experience. Stunning!

Taste:
Lots of rhum and dark chocolate and espresso notes, mint, tobacco, prunes - all sorts of dark fruits in fact, some orange liqueur and very old cognac. Also a tad more drying than its twin...

Like with its twin above it there's a fair deal of oak present, but to me its not over the top. Just love, love love this old style!

92/100!

To me, with these two, its simply just a matter of how much sherry you want in your whisky.

Read more about the casks here and watch a couple of youtube videos about these bottlings here: https://www.gordonandmacphail.com/longmorns/

Official samples provided by Gordon & MacPhail

Wednesday, 12 September 2018

MORTLACH 1987 31YO - GORDON AND MACPHAIL CONNOISSEURS CHOICE

Forgive me... a week has gone by since my last review was posted...

With the risk of sounding like you're sitting in a confessional at Mortlach Church this, yet to some unknown distillery, continues to have a following among whisky anoraks. Although some may have lost their faith and fallen from the good Mortlach grace, or atleast, fallen from the official bottlings from this iconic Speyside distillery, many continues to drink independently bottled Mortlachs.

Sadly there aren't many indie bottled Mortlachs out there these days even though a failed attempt by the distillers to re-launch Mortlach as an ultra premium malt in 50cl bottles should have left them with enough stock to sell on to independent bottlers as sales of that re-launch/revamping failed miserably.

Late July 2018 a press release revealed another attempt to re-lauch Mortlach,  this time with a 12, 16 and 20yo bottling (woohoo, ages statement is back in the entry level bottle) and pricing from £50 to £200, but this time in 70cl bottles.... However, with the general price increase, this will pretty much stay on level with the previous releases, sadly...

I know the bottling I'm about to review also will have carried a significant price tag as well, but as far as I know its sold out and I haven't been able to confirm its original price when writing this review but rest assured that I'd be happy to spend a good handful of money on a bottling like this.

Mortlach Stillhouse, May 1st 2010 © The Malt Desk

Mortlach 1981 31yo 54% Dist. 05.02.1987/bottled 03.07.2018 Batch 18/061 Refill sherry hogshead#425, 200 bottles, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice Cask Strength


Colour is dark mahogany - appearance in the glass is thick with slow logs on the side of the glass

Nose:
© G&M
At first a dash of oak, then notes of old dark well matured Rhum and not whisky plus spiked Bailey's Iced Coffee, extra strong coffee added. Classic old style sherry notes with lots of dark fruits, add to that burnt toffee and wet bung cloth. Love this!

Taste:
Quite a drying feeling upon arrival, but its them filled with brown banana, figs and dark chocolate and strong coffee notes.

The finish goes on forever with a bit of drying oak and those love old school sherry notes. Lovely, just... Lovely!

Its a sherry monster for sure and no real sherried sulphur notes in this one - only hints of Mortlachs own style of spirit sulphur. This one will be popular among the lovers of this particular heavily sherried style - incl. me

91/100!

Official sample provided by G&M

Wednesday, 5 September 2018

CLYNELISH 1989 28YO - GORDON AND MACPHAIL CONNOISSEURS CHOICE

We're staying north of Inverness for this next review.
Clynelish is one of my all time favourite distilleries and the standard 14yo bottling from the distillers at Diageo is one of the best reasonably standard releases out there, IMO

I last passed the distillery in late September 2016 on a whisky trip together with 4 whisky friends to discover the tours and prices had gone mad! Tours with tastings that were just the slightest bit interesting for the whisky anorak started at £100! Glad we had a bottle of Glenmorangie 1979 and Brora 1983 back at our holiday house, I had brought back to Scotland for our groups mutual enjoyment.

Prices aside, Clynelish makes a great whisky and this one from Gordon & MacPhail is no exception. Something extraordinary just happens to the Clynelish spirit when it passes 20+ years.

On to the review:

Clynelish Distillery fenced off during renovation in October 2014 © The Malt Desk

Clynelish 1989 28yo 49,8% Dist. 15.11.1989/bottled 26.06.2018 Batch 18/035, Refill American hogshead, 221 bottles, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice Cask Strength


Colour is straw - quite thick feling to this when swirled gently in the glass

Nose:
A slight dusty and moldy warehouse note pops op at you right away only to be pushed aside by mild oak and bit of that trademark oily/waxiness often found in Clynelish. Just after that an incredible fruit burst comes through with lots of apple, pears and bananas accompanied by honey and a faint briny note. Just lovely!

Taste:
Lovely thick and mouth coating. There are juicy fruits of a more tropical style this time like a multi fruit juice style thing. A few drops of water brings out a little ginger and turns it more citrussy in style and adding some sugared candy sticks notes to it as well.

A lovely Clynelish for sure! I'd love a full bottle and the time to explore this further..

89/100!

Official sample provided by G&M

Saturday, 1 September 2018

OLD PULTENEY 1998 19YO - GORDON & MACPHAIL CONNOISSEURS CHOICE

Its been quiet here for a while - the reasons are many and some of it personal, so on to the whisky :-)

Whisky Merchant and Independent Bottler, Gordon & Macphail, based in Elgin (Speyside), Scotland is celebrating its 50th birthday of their Connoisseurs Choice series this year and that means new bottlings galore, 37 in total actually, including some bottlings over the age of 30.

I've chosen to start with a review of an Old Pulteney from 1998, a bottle that I've also just recently bought a bottle of. I've always had a soft spot for this distillery and its remote location in the far north of Scotland in the town of Wick has only left me to visit this place just under a handful of times even though I travelled Scotland at least a couple of times a year for the past 18 years.

Like I said, I've always had a soft spot of this distillery, especially the 17yo official expression and the oh, so glorious hand bottlings offered to those who make their way up to the north of Scotland. Often these handbottlings have been matured in first fill ex-bourbon casks as the Pulteney from G&M I'm about to try, so expectations are high.

Cask available for handbottling on 20th October 2014 © The Malt Desk
Old Pulteney 1998 19yo 57,5% Dist. 26.08.1998/bottled 21.06.2018, Batch 18/049, First fill ex-bourbon cask, 192 bottles, Gordon & Macphail Connoisseurs Choice Cask Strength

Colour is copper - quite heavy and oily in the glass

Nose:
Initially quite heavy on the oak but more is lurking in the background. Have to give it some time zzzZZZzzz... After a good 15mins the oak has settled to a sawdusty note, vanilla spongecake, malt and breakfast tea.

Water makes this go cloudy in an instance (Welcome NCF) Out comes hints of citrus fruit before its all oak and malt galore.



Taste:
Lots of oak on the palate as well, so you have to like that. Again some fruit (overripe apples and pears) is present behind the oak, but its struggling a bit to come out. The finish is all on oak, malt and hints of dark chocolate.

Luckily I like a bit of oak in my whisky, but I think this one has maybe spent a year or 2 too long in the cask. 19 years in a first fill bourbon cask is a long time and it shows in this whisky. Am I glad, I bought a bottle before tasting this sample? Yes! Will I be drinking it and not passing it on? Certainly! It just posseses a style that is maybe not to everyones liking...

85/100

Official sample provided by G&M

Monday, 31 July 2017

AFTER 9 MONTHS OF QUIET - AN OPINION PIECE

Those checking in on The Malt Desk blog itself will have noticed its been quiet for about 9 months now.

Instead I've updated the The Malt Desk on Facebook and occasionally Twitter (@themaltdesk) with what I have been enjoying on the beer & whisky front...

So why this period of silence? To be honest, I'm not liking the path the whisky scene is on. I've previously expressed my thoughts on this and while I was thinking it had to stop, it has only gotten worse... Looking at how often I updated the blog during 2016, hell even 2015 its probably was a long time coming...



So what am I referring to? What's the reason I needed a break and are still considering if it should permanent? Well, several things actually... and this is going to piss off some people, but frankly I've never been a part of the political correct crowd, so I really don't care...

The reaction to this piece will reveal peoples standpoints clearly on the below issue and I hope that it at the same time can spark some debate...

INVESTORS/COLLECTORS:

Ok, let me begin with the a general observation - and you probably knew this was coming if you've read previous posts on here.

All whisky (no exceptions!) I've bought in my 17 years as a whisky lover has been with the intend to drink. I also do not encourage investing in whisky as it just drives up prices for real whisky lovers. That said, I also recognise market forces of supply and demand, but there's also a silly-limit on pricing in effect here at The Malt Desk. No whisky are IMO worth what some are sold for these days and I have also myself parted with a few on that account, but people spending silly amounts of money on whisky really have more money than sense.

I'm a member of a large number of whisky-related Facebook groups and also the (co)admin on a few. In lots of these, often the first thing asked by (new) members is 'What's this bottle worth?' and often its asked about a bottle of no particular value, so clearly more and more people are trying out their luck as whisky investors. Some are actually asking what their supermarket whisky is worth? Really guys?? Stop it, just stop it! If this is the depth at which your investment and interest in whisky runs, you should probably find another place to spend you money, 'cause right now you're just coming across dumb!

I had hoped that when distillers started raising their prices to take their share back from the secondary market, it would slow down, but it just seems that more and more people are trying to make a quick buck as the word of how popular whisky has become spreads around. Instead this has lead to a general increase in prices in both the primary and the secondary market :-/

Latest silly priced whisky on the secondary market is this Karuizawa... almost the same price as an Audi A8 in the UK.

So do you want this?

Picture from a facebook feed...

or do you want this? The choice is easy - at least for me... Audi it is...

The most scary part is that its not even the most expensive whisky sold at auction... according to thespiritsbusiness.com its this Macallan 64 year in Lalique Cire Perdu Decanter sold at a staggering £353.747 in 2010

Photo credit: Audi.dk

THE BLOGGING COMMUNITY:


I've also decided to turn the spotlight on the whisky blogging community...

I'm sure you have all noticed how the blog/vlog scene has litterally exploded over the past 5 years. Now, I've met some great people over the years from this crowd, both domestically and abroad (you know who are!) but there's also a crowd that I'm not terribly impressed with. I'm not gonna call out anyone specific here, but to me it seems that all more and more 'bloggers' are doing these days are brown nosing the distilleries/brands and appearing as nothing but an extended marketing department.

They can be doing it to receive free samples, of course, but reading many of these posts it more and more looks like a select crowd are trying to line themselves up as potential candidates the next time one of the whisky companies are hiring a new brand ambassador. I honestly don't think its pretty and certainly not trustworthy, yet the crowd doing it just seems to get bigger and bigger.... and nobody likes a suck-up brown nose and doing so entirely destroys your credibility.

Let me also add that I do get sent the occasional free sample but I'm also fortunate enough not to have to rely on samples to keep my blog going. I also run the local whisky club and have a fair stash to drink from as well. What I'm getting at here is that when I say something is good its not because I'm trying to get whisky companies sending me (more) samples - you can believe it unless your personal taste differs significantly from mine. That is also why I would like to ask you as a reader to go independent - not this blog in particular, but I do suggest you remain critical towards the little too glorified style of writing towards some, honestly, fairly average products we're seing these days....

There are still indeed some good whisky blogs out there, no doubt about that... but as with everything else - be picky, like when you spend your hard earned money on a bottle of whisky.

WHISKY FESTIVALS:

Since 2010 and up until last year (2016), I've been a regular at the Spirit of Speyside Spring Festival, so 6 years in a row... I've watched it grow year after year and accommodation and events getting harder and harder to book - that's one thing... there's only so many beds in central Speyside where everyone wants to stay.

There is no doubt that the Spirit of Speyside Spring Festival is good for the economy of the entire area, but I just can't help feel some of the spirit has disappeared over the past few years, when the big players decided that a posh crowd should drive some of the events forward. To be honest, I now feel that regular people has been driven out by introducing very expensive events that just a couple of years ago just cost half of what they used to.

To me, it now all seems about arriving in your Range Rover Sport, £200/night accommodation and mediocre off the shelf whisky bottlings presented by posh London drinks writers and people being on location and drinking the before mentioned whisky they could just as well have bought at their local retailer at a fraction of the price.

This became even more clear to me when I browsed through this years events for #dram17 as the festival is now tagged on social media. What struck me first was that there were fewer events I was genuinely interested in - and the ones I was interested in were all £100+ which to me are 2 other symptom of the regular punter being excluded... and before the critics cry out that its only because I can't afford this and/or I'm an old fart hanging onto what whisky was 15 years ago, let me just make it clear that I do all right, but like I mentioned above in the 'Investors' section I do have a silly-money limit and some of these events crosses those limits when you look at the price/quality ratio these days.

So for now, and in my opinion again of course, the Spirit of Speyside Spring Festival has been taken over by the posh crowd and shareholders in the big companies demanding profit. E.g. how much whisky are the guys at Macallan expecting to sell with they new distillery coming online before long? Let's hope for them its not all going to be all Teletubby land up there. I hope they'll still make decent whisky - that is if they'll give it time to mature in good quality casks... If you want to get a glimpse of what the Spring Festival used to be like, then visit the Dufftown Autumn Whisky Festival, its (still) less crowded and arranged by whiskylovers in Dufftown and the The Whisky Shop Dufftown.

** edit ** This piece was supposed to be posted just over 3 months ago, well before the I was on my way to the Campbeltown Malt Fest 2017. This would my 5th time going to Campbeltown but my first time at the festival and from what I was told, it was a festival still in a relative pristine condition.

This year however, and to the surprise of my seasoned Campbeltown Malt Fest goers as well, it seemed like all the bottle chasers and flippers also made their way to the wee toon this year. The good folks at Springbank and Cadenheads tried their best by limiting the number of bottles available per person and by introducing personalised labels this year, but still some bottles hit both retail shop and secondary markets - at a heavily inflated price, of course... I'll most likely be coming back for next years fest and knowing the folks at Springbank/Cadenhead there'll probably be another restriction or 2 in place next year, which is absolute fine with me.

The wee toon on Kintyre :-) © The Malt Desk 2017

Bottom line must be that there's no holy ground anymore...
Anything is fair game during the hunt for profit in the world of whisky these days... and on that note we get to my final section

PREMIUMIZATION:

OK, Lets take a look at the whisky industry in general here, first the big companies...

Let me start here by saying I'm not specifically lashing out at any one specific company and I'm purely using Highland Park as an example as its been highly profiled so everyone will probably know what I'm talking about and it can then easily be transferred to other companies and brands, e.g Ardbeg or similar

Now, while I do like and even applaud a well made branding from a strictly professional point of view I might add, e.g. the Highland Park Viking theme is extremely well done! Vikings sell! BigTime!
The viking culture, mythology, history all hits spot on with many, not only here in native Scandinavia, but everywhere around the world, adequately fuelled by the HBO TV series 'Vikings' and 'The Last Kingdom'... and its great when a brand succeeds, right? Good for business, jobs etc... yes, but not good for pricing and the punter on a budget who, much faster than usual, is left behind with a bittersweet taste in his/her mouth - not from the whisky but from not being able to buy what may be their favourite whisky.

Many brands have now reached a pricing level where average income punters have to think twice before they go spend their hard earned money on a bottle of malt to numb a hard days work. There are, of course, cheaper options if you just want to numb yourself, but if you want to have it taste good at the same time, your options are getting more and more limited and the sinner is the premiumization of brands and the luxury that is starting to get associated with them, much like what I commented above in the section of Whisky Festival-section.

The brands these days are simply tapping into a whole new customer segment, a segment with more money, more prone to the eat up the marketing and the 'make you feel a part of something special'-segment, and 'look at me'-social media generation, Millenials who's made a buck and are willing to spend it on being a part of something, when what they're really buying is a bottle of booze and a feeling...


THE END?:

Do I sound like a bitter old man? Maybe... Am I bitter old man? Maybe... but it doesn't change the fact that this is the direction not only whisky but our entire society is heading in - and I'm not sure I like it...

I'll close with a note for those getting into whisky these days... Unless, you're really well off and can afford to buy older bottlings for silly money, you're getting screwed with regards to how single malt whisky from your favourite distillery is supposed to taste like, IMO... but like I said, if you have enough money, you don't care you just buy the old stuff at a premium not caring if you're getting screwed in another way...

Instead, you should be asking yourself this... 'Would you be willing to pay a premium for new releases today if you know that a much better quality was available just a decade ago?' If you're serious about your money and the quality of your whisky, then the obvious answer to that question should be a big 'NO'...

Do you still want to get into whisky? Its a race, I tell you... a race - and you might want to consider if its worth your time...

Wednesday, 26 October 2016

HIGHLAND PARK 2003 12YO - DISTILLERY BOTTLING FOR BRAUNSTEIN & FRIENDS

Its been a while since the last update here on The Malt Desk itself. As always other stuff (life) seems to interfere incl a 10 day trip to Scotland (Speyside & North Highlands) did provide for updates for The Malt Desk's Facebook page and Twitter (@themaltdesk)

But there has also been a streak of writers block much derived from some of the things happening with whisky at the moment but I will not get into that in this post...

In March this year, at the Danish Whisky Fair, plans were revealed to me that Highland Park try and return to their roots and start doing stuff like single cask bottlings for various markets again - something that had not been done much of over the past 5+ years... and on the 15th October this year, the first single cask for Denmark in a number of year was released as a part of Danish Distillery Braunstein's Whisky Fair. The bottle is a 2003 12yo heavily sherried release that immediately caught the attention of Highland Park fans - especially through the Highland Park Appreciation Society group on Facebook.

I decided to order the 2 bottles per person limit in pre-order and upon receiving the bottles, the online chatter about this bottling had really taken off with most asking how to get a full bottle as it had sold out over the release weekend or asking how to obtain a sample. Some had also tasted it at the Braunstein Whisky Fair and was raving about it, statements that spiked my curiosity further. After posting of my (so far closed) bottles bottles on Facebook, I had more and more people asking for my opinion on it - both in regular posts and in private messages which means there must be at least a few people out there that values my opinion ;-)

Anyway, its good to see Highland Park returning to releases like this. The only sad thing is that people are selling them off straight away for a profit...

Oh, wait I just did get into one of the things that's been keeping me away from the blog for a while...


So, let's take a look at this single cask Highland Park... 

I had a couple of friends try this one out as well and got a couple of interesting descriptions from them :)
The most descriptive one must be this from my friend MBO:
"This whisky is so massive that its the fluid embodiment of Brand Ambassador Martin Markvardsen, sweaty and reeking of masculinity in nothing but a kilt charging down onto the beaches from the cliffs of Yesnaby while wielding a two-handed viking broadsword, defending the Islands from whisky raiders"
My other friend MP was a bit more traditional:

"This whisky is such strong sherry influenced whisky, so strong it resembles red  balsamic vinegar and spicy oak juice and leaves little else to the drinker"


You can read my personal notes and thoughts below the picture...

The entrance to Highland Park Distillery, August 6th 2009 © The Malt Desk

Highland Park 2003/2016, 12yo, 58,3%, 1st fill European Sherry butt#5878, 648 bottles, Distillery Bottling for Braunstein & Friends, Denmark

Colour is dark mahogany
Lets hope it doesn't have any s-notes - regular readers will know I'm sensitive to that :O


Nose:
Huge on sherry and struck matches on the nose, turning towards reduced tomato glace - a little sweet peat smoke is surfacing, but its struggling to make its way through. There's some dark chocolate, charred oak and with water some café latte and mentholated notes. The peat smoke is also more noticeable now along with a fruity sweetness subdued by the strong sherry, charred and struck match notes. The reduced nose down to maybe 45% leaves little or no trace of unpleasentries.

Taste:
Again big on the sherry, red balsamic vinegar, charred wood chips and prune juice, grilled beetroot left too long on the bbq, dark old style sugar cane rhum and burnt molasses, spicy sherry oak notes, burnt grilled sausages, damp peat and something like inhaling the smoke from burning your organic garden waste. The finish is carried a long way by the sherry but then gets the dreaded pop-up of sulphur of the matchstick kind - like on the nose. 
It's certainly quite a massive release this one and in trying to come up with a conclusion to this one and it must be that, as my initial impressions followed through...

Closest comparison I'll make is that its a Highland Park 'Dark Originis' on steroids. That said, there's still something more in this one as in quite bit more sherried, there's more peat smoke and charred notes. Sadly there's still noticeable matchbox sulphur in here too. I know that a lot of people like this note and on top of that statistics also shows that close to 30% of all people can't even pick up the note.

I remember older bottlings of Highland Park not having this distinct note (reference here are the old OBs e.g. the 12 & 18) and when I argue this its because I also find it, very vaguely though, in the new releases of the OBs and vaguely probably because they've:

1.
 Been watered down to 40/43%

2. The amount of first fill casks going into these are obviously smaller than when dealing with a single cask bottling like the Braunstein & Friends-bottling 

I'm sadly left with the feeling that its just the style of sherry casks Highland Park get from their contracted bodega - or at least it was back in the day when this cask was laid to rest in 2003.

What I'm then left to ponder over is whether the 30% not able to taste these notes + those that like these notes is such a large part of the customer base that its not worth spending time and money trying to get rid of it??

All these things said (some less flattering) its still good whisky as you can water your way out of the matchstick sulphur in this - or at least down to an acceptable level. Luckily for me the matchstick kind isn't the type I'm overly sensitive to (its the rubbery kind) so Yes, I can drink this neat but the presence of matchstick sulphur just irritates me as this bottling could have been a belter without it!

Are you looking for a score? ok, I'll give you one...

86/100

Wednesday, 7 September 2016

HIGHLAND PARK 'HOBBISTER' - DISTILLERY BOTTLING

As with many recent bottlings of Highland Park, there was also a bit of fuss surround the release of the 'Hobbister'... The fuss, however was a bit more of a technical kind. Only 1200 bottles was released of this one and it was only available at the distillery itself and/or online in the distillery webshop...

The web traffic generated when the bottles went online made the Highland Park website crash so you couldn't finish your order. People were also queueing outside the distillery to get a bottle, so what a start for this bottling, eh? :) Bottom line is that it sold out in a flash when the website was working...

Official picture by Highland Park 

Anyway, this bottling is the first of 5,  in a series called the 'Keystone'-collection where Highland Park will be focusing on the following:

  • Aromatic Peat
  • Sherry oak
  • Cool maturation
  • Harmonisation
  • Hand turned malt

This one, the 'Hobbister' is named after the moor where Highland Park cuts its peat used in about 20% of their production. The whisky itself is supposedly made up of 6yo Highland Park from 1st and refill ex-bourbon casks, mixed with some 12yo...

So how did I get my hands on some?
As I mentioned above, this sold out in a flash, leaving a lot of people frowning.
Luckily a bottle was offered up as samples by Thorfinn Craigie from the Highland Park Appriciation Society on Facebook and then kindly administered by Ian Moir- Huge thanks, gents!

The 'price'? A donation to RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) This ended up with a total donation of £700 for the RNLI, some of it also raised at a local tasting on Orkney. Well done, all! :)

The cheque of £700 is handed over to the RNLI by Thorfinn Craigie, Martin Markvardsen and Ian Moir - Picture by Jim Lyngvild (thanks for the use, Jim)

Highland Park 'Hobbister' 51,4%, 1200 bottles, Distillery bottling (RRP was £75)

Colour is pale amber

Nose:
Quite upfront with lots of burning twigs and leaves, like burning your garden cuttings, but underneath you get some very nice tropical fruit and quite a bit of floral notes, like fabric softener.

After a while the peaty smoke notes retreats somewhat allowing a more citric and malty edge to peak but also revealing a few notes of young whisky.... this, however, comes and goes and is never uncomfortable in any way and I fell it somehow carries the floral forward

Taste:
A good burst of floral peat and honey to start with, then lots of crisp malt and a brown sugary note... There's also some vanilla pods and hint of smoked pineapple here.

The sherry influence is coming through a bit more here with hints of candied apple and charred oak. The floral peat pops back up mid- to end palate and leaves a taste of something pleasant reminding me of kissing my grandmother on the cheek, like a mix of perfume and cigar...

What do I think if this? Quite good, actually - its very lively and fresh Highland Park... and very different too, I think with its very aromatic peat style. The whole thing is quite well put together and it constantly bounces back and forth producing both young and notes of older whisky. Finally bottling this at 51,4% was the right choice as I think some of its flavours would have gotten lost at a lower abv%

87/100!

Thursday, 18 August 2016

DALMORE 2001/2015 - GORDON & MACPHAIL

It's not often I review a Dalmore... Why? well, there's not many releases from the indies and frankly I find the official bottlings very much on the dull side, all drowned in E150a caramel colouring and offered at just 40%.

This time, Gordon & Macphail has stomped up some refill sherry casks no where near as dark as the official bottlings... and we know why - because they don't use E150a caramel coloring in this bottling :-)

Dalmore Distillery with the Cromarty Firth beyond, seen from the road behind the distillery, 19th October 2014 © The Malt Desk

Dalmore 2001/2015 46%, Refill sherry hogsheads, Connoisseure's Choice by Gordon & Macphail

Colour is pale white wine

Nose:
Picture by G&M
Quite light and fresh with baked apple, tropical fruit juice and dusty earthen floors. After a while some lovely malty notes appear accompanied by some fresh lime juice and hint of something floral

Taste:
Lovely mellow yellow fruit arrival, some vanilla and then a rush lemon and peppery spicyness. I find quite a mineral side to this somewhere mid palate and a surprising sharpness from a a rush of citric and grassy notes.

This is a very straight forward dram - not overly complex in any way and it holds its own against e.g. the standard 12yo distillery bottling... a very 'naked' Dalmore :-)

82/100!

Official sample provided by Gordon & Macphail

Wednesday, 10 August 2016

MORTLACH 1954/2012 58YO - GORDON & MACPHAIL RARE VINTAGE

It's been little over a year since I've reviewed a Mortlach... Time flies! and you can't dismiss the time factor with this next whisky either, it's from... hold on... 1954 !! and bottled in late 2012, making it 58 years old...

Now, with such an old whisky, the thought of 'oak juice' crosses your mind and its with both admiration and a dose of scepticism that you should approach a whisky like this... Why, you ask? Well, we all know that old whiskies these days are rarer than hens teeth and have price labels attached that makes them out of reach for a good many people... so one could fear that a cask of oak juice will be bottled just because of its sheer age and not because its good, but thankfully that's not the case with this one! I've been so lucky to try another great Speysider from 1954 last November but other than that 50s stuff really been few and far between, but if you get the chance to try old stuff like this, do go ahead... but if you like it, don't get too attached to it because of its price tag unless you're really loaded or willing to take out a 2nd morgage ;-)

Anyway, let's have a brief look at the origins of this dram. Mortlach Distillery in Dufftown, Moray has gradually appearing more and more on the radar of most whisky drinkers, who wants to enjoy something a bit more out of the ordinary and with good reason so. The spirit from this distillery is about as robust as they come in Speyside which makes it sought after by the blenders and makes it suitable for long term maturation. Add to that, that Mortlach is often matured in sherry casks which adds another dimension to the whisky from this distillery.

So how well does Mortlach actually mature? Well , of course this has to do alot with the cask it has been laid down in, but we've already seen a bottling as old as 75 years, also from Gordon & Macphail - so a mere 58 years should be no problem, right?

Here's my take on it...

The stills at Mortlach, May 1st 2010 © The Malt Desk

Mortlach 1954/2012 43% (27.01.1954/21.11.2012) 1st fill sherry butt#494, 347 bottles, Gordon & Macphail Rare Vintage

Colour is light mahogany

Nose:
Nougat/praline and strawberry and blackcurrant jam, polished oak and leather, hints of clove, cinnamon cookies, rum raisin ice cream - heavy on the rum. Also in there are charred baked banana dosed with a little brown suger and a cooling fresh feeling. The ultra clean sherry is dosed in such perfect measures, it never overpowers anything else... one to nose for a looong time :-)

Picture by G&M - 2008 version shown
Taste:
Very lively for a 58yo whisky - quite a bit in fact! The age shows, yes, but its never invasive nor thin and underwhelming.  The arrival is much like any other lovely old sherried whisky, but then it takes off on a tropical fruit, clove, cinnamon and slight orangy Xmas theme but only to return to summer with more strawberry, some sweet sun dried tomato and mild chili powder and a mixed herb finish

Ok, I'm really trying hard here to detach myself from the thought of drinking a whisky from 1954 and bottled in 2012.

I'd like to add this piece to my experience I had with this whisky...
I decided to take a short break from nosing and tasting this to give my senses a break and went into another room. When I went back to my office/desk I could already smell it from afar when entering the room - that's how expressive this whisky is.

When I finished nosing/tasting it I allowed myself to have a Pale Ale to refresh my palate - 4 sips of Pale Ale and I can still taste the whisky a bit... That should tell you just how saturated the taste is in this whisky - its just stunning old sherried whisky! Stunning... and some of the best whisky I've had so far in 2016

93/100!

Official sample provided by Gordon & Macphail



Sunday, 7 August 2016

GLENTURRET 2002/2015 - GORDON & MACPHAIL

Its been quite some time since I've had a Glenturret... and I honestly can't remember if I ever had a sherry matured Glenturret - so when I opened the small parcel and discovered this, it was my first to try :-)

Located in the town of Crieff about 1½ north of Edinburgh, the distillery is a nice little spot offering both the Glenturret Single Malt, but it also promotes itself as 'The Famous Grouse Experience' which provides a look into the The Famous Grouse Blend and its different versions.


Glenturret Distillery from the road just outside the parking lot entrance, August 16th 2009 © The Malt Desk

Glenturret 2002 / 2015 43%, First fill sherry puncheons, Macphail's Collection by Gordon & Macphail 

Colour is amber
Picture by G&M

Nose:
Lots of sherry influence... Oranges and old cigarbox then candied dried apple snacks, hints of pencil shavings, maple syrup, slightly mentholated hints and old bonfire notes

Taste:
Orange zest, roasted nuts, burnt sugar, dark honey and tobacco. The overall experience is quite smooth... as in no unexpected rough edges and really stand out'ish notes.

This is very well put together! I can certainly see myself having this around as an everyday dram!

85/100!

Official sample provided by Gordon & Macphail